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one for 12v ac to the headlight and one for 6v to charge battery and the rest of the lights you should only need the reg/rec that came with your new engine and this http://dratv.com/12vrerepikea.html you would only use the green wires and unhook the yellow from the 6v reg/rec and hook it to the yellow on the 12v reg/rec. see http://us.st11.turbifycdn.com/us.st.turbifycdn.com/I/dratv_1991_200787486 or you can just use this in the yellow circut http://dratv.com/12vre2.html and unhook it from the 6v reg/rec. let me know if you do either and how it works out for you? i would need to know if you still have the original headlight or one of our replacable bulb lights to get you set with 12v headlight either way you would one of these two items/ or both http://dratv.com/ct90k2thru19.html http://dratv.com/12bufor40heu.html we do have a bigger cam, but you may have to remove the right head cover to know which one for sure.. see http://us.st11.turbifycdn.com/us.st.turbifycdn.com/I/dratv_1990_231636836 and http://dratv.com/suraforzoen2.html and http://dratv.com/lisomocambyd.html thanks jack Patrick Also do you sell a bigger or better cam than the stock one for the zongshen 125? Thanks for the help. Patrick Regulator/Rectifier From: "apack@nc.rr.com" Regulator-Rectifier Wiring Diagram.jpg (338KB) View Image -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Jack, I just received my regulators that I purchased from you. I was looking at your photos to make sure that I hook them up properly. It is kinda hard to see the connector orientation so I made a little diagram of what I believe your diagrams are showing. Would you look at the diagram to make sure it is right? If you agree that it is correct and you find it useful, you are welcome to put it on your website if you think it will help others. Thanks again, Anthony Pack |
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I appreciate your confidence in me! Certainly your many various posts are of interest, I especially like your C70 mods and have always read your posts with interest. Juanito stated "I have a Lifan 125 motor with a yellow and white wire that provide AC voltage. I haven't had the flywheel off to see what the stator plate looks like, so i don't know what the wires are connected to." Juanito also wrote "Every voltage regulator i connect gives me upwards of 20V at higher RPM. This is pretty much the voltage i get out of a plain old rectifying diode as well. So, how do i get a voltage regulator to actually regulate my voltage? Sure would be nice. I'm about to buy a stack of 12V zener diodes to just put across the output." Lifan most often uses a single charging coil, one winding wire on a laminated steel core, with no center ground tap. The Yellow and White wires are the ends of this charging coil. The stator plate has a Green ground wire that only involves the CDI system. If you check resistance across Yellow and White, you read an Ohm or three. If you check resistance from Yellow to Green (ground) or White to Green, you measure no resistance... infinity. If you have this style of Lifan wiring, then a common 4-wire clone Voltage regulator acts as a shunt, converting excess current into heat. Make sure and bolt the regulator to metal, with some airflow, because you have no battery and LED lights, your C70 bike does not burn off the excess Amps... so your regulator will run HOT. If this were my bike, I would add a battery and some loads, OR install 4 Lifan shunt regulators in parallel, and let it rip: http://www.lifanenginepartswholesale.com/voltage-regulator-voltage-regulator-08-for-chinese-atv-scooter-dirt-bike-p-9358.html The small regulators are designed to shunt only a few Amps, to lower the Volts. Typical loads are an incandescent headlight, tail light, dash lamp, and charging a 5 to 15 Amp hour battery. 20 Volts DC is way too much after a Voltage regulator, indicating the regulator is defective, and the rectifier is still operational. Note: when you rev up a Lifan with a Voltage regulator attached, but little to no loads connected to the regulator output, the regulator tries to shunt ALL excess Volts to ground, through a small circuit inside the regulator housing. Since the charging coil can produce several Amps at 20+ Volts at high RPM, and since your bike only consumes an Amp or two, the shunt circuit roasts rapidly. Its only designed to handle maybe 5 Amps. It will go nuclear and die inside a minute, tops. Once the shunt is blown, the rectifying circuit inside still passes DC Voltage. This is why you measure high DC Volts passing the regulator. A 250cc sized unit has a better Amp rating: http://www.pccmotor.com/atv-voltage-regulator-retifier-honda-200cc-2520025003.html Heatsinking to the frame and making some airflow happen is important on your batteryless, LED bike. However, no amount of heatsinking and airflow will help save a badly overloaded regulator. It heats up inside too fast and blows the shunt open, before the heat can make it to the heatsink. You might have one of the engines with a center tapped charging coil. If so, let me know and we can tackle it, that requires a 1/2 wave rectifier and a different regulating circuit. Its not so simple to run the White and Yellow into a full-wave bridge rectifier, and use a 7812 style regulator circuit with an Amp boosting circuit, or an LM317 adjustable style with Amp booster. This circuit tends to make no Volts at idle. You can make a shunt from Zeners, but you will need 15 Amps worth... that is a LOT of Zeners in series and parallel. The old Triumps had huge Zener shunts on finned heatsinks. Installing multiple, inexpensive clone regulators in parallel to get more Amp capacity is easiest. Ask questions, I will answer best I can, good luck with it! Jon Pardue Sarasota, Florida |
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I appreciate your confidence in me! Certainly your many various posts are of interest, I especially like your C70 mods and have always read your posts with interest. Juanito stated "I have a Lifan 125 motor with a yellow and white wire that provide AC voltage. I haven't had the flywheel off to see what the stator plate looks like, so i don't know what the wires are connected to." Juanito also wrote "Every voltage regulator i connect gives me upwards of 20V at higher RPM. This is pretty much the voltage i get out of a plain old rectifying diode as well. So, how do i get a voltage regulator to actually regulate my voltage? Sure would be nice. I'm about to buy a stack of 12V zener diodes to just put across the output." Lifan most often uses a single charging coil, one winding wire on a laminated steel core, with no center ground tap. The Yellow and White wires are the ends of this charging coil. The stator plate has a Green ground wire that only involves the CDI system. If you check resistance across Yellow and White, you read an Ohm or three. If you check resistance from Yellow to Green (ground) or White to Green, you measure no resistance... infinity. If you have this style of Lifan wiring, then a common 4-wire clone Voltage regulator acts as a shunt, converting excess current into heat. Make sure and bolt the regulator to metal, with some airflow, because you have no battery and LED lights, your C70 bike does not burn off the excess Amps... so your regulator will run HOT. If this were my bike, I would add a battery and some loads, OR install 4 Lifan shunt regulators in parallel, and let it rip: http://www.lifanenginepartswholesale.com/voltage-regulator-voltage-regulator-08-for-chinese-atv-scooter-dirt-bike-p-9358.html The small regulators are designed to shunt only a few Amps, to lower the Volts. Typical loads are an incandescent headlight, tail light, dash lamp, and charging a 5 to 15 Amp hour battery. 20 Volts DC is way too much after a Voltage regulator, indicating the regulator is defective, and the rectifier is still operational. Note: when you rev up a Lifan with a Voltage regulator attached, but little to no loads connected to the regulator output, the regulator tries to shunt ALL excess Volts to ground, through a small circuit inside the regulator housing. Since the charging coil can produce several Amps at 20+ Volts at high RPM, and since your bike only consumes an Amp or two, the shunt circuit roasts rapidly. Its only designed to handle maybe 5 Amps. It will go nuclear and die inside a minute, tops. Once the shunt is blown, the rectifying circuit inside still passes DC Voltage. This is why you measure high DC Volts passing the regulator. A 250cc sized unit has a better Amp rating: http://www.pccmotor.com/atv-voltage-regulator-retifier-honda-200cc-2520025003.html Heatsinking to the frame and making some airflow happen is important on your batteryless, LED bike. However, no amount of heatsinking and airflow will help save a badly overloaded regulator. It heats up inside too fast and blows the shunt open, before the heat can make it to the heatsink. You might have one of the engines with a center tapped charging coil. If so, let me know and we can tackle it, that requires a 1/2 wave rectifier and a different regulating circuit. Its not so simple to run the White and Yellow into a full-wave bridge rectifier, and use a 7812 style regulator circuit with an Amp boosting circuit, or an LM317 adjustable style with Amp booster. This circuit tends to make no Volts at idle. You can make a shunt from Zeners, but you will need 15 Amps worth... that is a LOT of Zeners in series and parallel. The old Triumps had huge Zener shunts on finned heatsinks. Installing multiple, inexpensive clone regulators in parallel to get more Amp capacity is easiest. Ask questions, I will answer best I can, good luck with it! Jon Pardue Sarasota, Florida rovaza # 400105 To: "Patrick" one for 12v ac to the headlight and one for 6v to charge battery and the rest of the lights you should only need the reg/rec that came with your new engine and this http://dratv.com/12vrerepikea.html you would only use the green wires and unhook the yellow from the 6v reg/rec and hook it to the yellow on the 12v reg/rec. see http://us.st11.turbifycdn.com/us.st.turbifycdn.com/I/dratv_1991_200787486 or you can just use this in the yellow circut http://dratv.com/12vre2.html and unhook it from the 6v reg/rec. let me know if you do either and how it works out for you? i would need to know if you still have the original headlight or one of our replacable bulb lights to get you set with 12v headlight either way you would one of these two items/ or both http://dratv.com/ct90k2thru19.html http://dratv.com/12bufor40heu.html we do have a bigger cam, but you may have to remove the right head cover to know which one for sure.. see http://us.st11.turbifycdn.com/us.st.turbifycdn.com/I/dratv_1990_231636836 and http://dratv.com/suraforzoen2.html and http://dratv.com/lisomocambyd.html thanks jack Patrick Also do you sell a bigger or better cam than the stock one for the zongshen 125? Thanks for the help. Patrick |
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