  HEAD REBUILD SERVICE DESCRIPTION Normally, in the past we did not do online head rebuilds. why? Because of things like = deep rust damage, spark plug threads weak, stripped or poorly installed Heli coil thread repair, exhaust studs broken off or stripped, intake manifold bolt threads stripped, "plain bearings" out of spec (where the cam rides in the aluminum), broken fins and on and on. But,,, if all those items are good,, We can and will, 1. Remove the old valves, springs, keepers and cotters. 2. Bead blast the combustion chamber and ports. (AND THE WHOLE HEAD) 3. Run taps through all threaded holes to clean them up. 4. Replace & ream any valve guide loose or out of spec. (I will not replace original guides that are within spec's) 5. Cut valve seats to a fresh 3 angle taper. 6. Install new HQ valves, new HQ valve springs and new HQ guide seal/s. 7. Pack up YOUR REBUILT ORIGINAL HEAD like an egg and return it to you asap. It SHOULD look like the first picture when you get it back. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- PLEASE READ THE FOLLOWING!! When we cut seats and install new valves, We were taught by Honda Tech to not lap the exhaust or really even the intake valve (but i do the intake valve a tiny bit) , they told us that the valves will seat in themselves very fast and not to worry. The reason is,, most exhaust valves have a HARD "stellite" coating on the valve face, and lapping them removes some of that coating. !!! so,, our valve jobs DO NOT always pass a solvent leak test !!! --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Be sure to set the valve clearance at .002" when the piston is at top dead center of the compression stroke. The "F" mark on the flywheel will be aligned up with the index mark on the stator, and the valves will both be shut. Recheck the valve clearance after running a tank of gas, with the engine cool. ================================================================== WHAT YOU MUST !! DO BEFORE SENDING US YOUR HEAD: * 1. YOU MUST REMOVE ALL HEAD COVERS, CAMSHAFT, ROCKERS, & ALL GUIDE / DOWEL PINS (LIKE FIRST PICTURE) * (WE WILL REMOVE THE VALVES) * 2. YOU MUST REMOVE ANY DAMAGED EXHAUST STUDS * (BE CAREFUL! WD40=LOTS) (MAYBE HEAT WITH PROPANE TORCH) * 3. THERE MUST NOT BE ANY BAD THREADS OR BROKEN STUDS * (ESPECIALLY THE SPARK PLUG THREADS) !!!! CHECK CLOSE * (WE DON'T REPAIR THREADS WITH THIS SERVICE) * 4. THE CAM BEARING SURFACES MUST BE IN GOOD CONDITION * WHICH MEANS THE CAMSHAFT SHOULD HAVE VERY LITTLE FREE PLAY INSIDE THE HEAD (THERE WILL BE SOME) * 5. ALL GASKET SURFACES MUST BE GOOD * GOOD ENOUGH TO SEAL IN OIL AND OR COMPRESSION * 6. NO BROKEN FINS (OR TELL US BEFORE HAND IF "YOUR" OK WITH IT) * 7. PLEASE PACK YOUR CORE LIKE IT WAS AN EGG WHEN YOU SEND THE HEAD INTO US BE SURE TO INCLUDE THE ORDER NUMBER, WHEN PACKING UP YOUR HEAD DO "NOT" USE JUST ALL PACKING PEANUTS AS THIS WILL ALMOST GUARANTEE A BROKEN FIN. THE BEST WAY, IS TO USE SOMETHING LIKE AN OLD BEACH TOWEL AND MAKE IT INTO A BALL, THEN IN THE BOX. JUST ALL CARDBOARD DON'T ALWAYS WORK EITHER. ========================================================================= SEND TO: JACK FRINGER C/O DrATV_RETIRED 148 6TH RD MARYSVILLE KS 66508 ========================================================================= IN THE FUTURE WE WILL BE SELLING SOME HEADS OUTRIGHT WITH NO CORE TO SEND IN. ========================================================================= IF YOU HAVE A HEAD WITH PROBLEMS LIKE STRIPPED THREADS OR BROKEN STUDS I MAY BE INTERESTED TO BUY IT. (We would need lots of good pictures of the said damaged head) ========================================================================= |
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YOUR HEAD NEEDS TO MATCH YOUR CYLINDER BUT EITHER SET WILL WORK ON ANY BOTTOM END | | | | | | | | | | |
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