THIS ELECTRONIC IGNITION ELIMINATES THEM D--N POINTS !!!!
IT USES THE STOCK COIL AND 6V BATTERY,, ALL YOU HAVE TO DO IS MODIFY THE ADVANCER, REMOVE THE POINTS PLATE , REPLACE IT WITH THE NEW PICKUP PLATE AND SET THE TIMING,,, FOR THE LAST TIME EVER !!! (:
|A NOTE FROM CHARLIE ABOUT SPACERS/WASHERS ON SOME MODELSHi Jack,
This is a common issue. It has to do with the fact that there are different types of advancers on different years. Some are a perfect fit, others are shorter and require the use of washers to take up the space difference. That is why we provide the washers. The vast majority are a straight fit with no issue. The other thing that I have observed is that often people in shops or elsewhere switch out the advancer for a 'whatever fits' advancer, sometimes from a completely different type of bike. In any case we explain this in our instructions, but it is definitely something you want to make people aware of. I receive many phone calls with people referencing the same issue and when I explain it they always say something like "I was wondering what those washers were for"...
Another thing to let people know is that there are sometimes shims at the base of the advancer and these should always be removed.|
Hopefully that clarifies that issue.
YOU NEED 2EA OF THE LONGER POINTS COVER SCREWS BELOW (301F) TO GO WITH THE SPACER.
|POINTS COVER SCREW FOR CHARLIE'S SPACER (SOLD_EACH) 5X32MM .8_PITCH 1/18M (301F)|
|5MM X 30MM BY .9 COARSE THREAD OVAL HEAD TAPERED SCREW 1/20I (R2068)|
|.8 VS. .9 METRIC PITCH 5MM SCREWS (.8 IS JIS OR STANDARD)|
|THIS IS THE GOAL SHOT, MAKE IT LOOK LIKE THIS (:|
|1. AFTER YOU TAKE OFF THE POINTS COVER AND REMOVE THE 2 POINTS PLATE SCREWS,, THE POINTS PLATE ASSY,, THEN REMOVE THE CENTER ADVANCER BOLT AND SLIDE THE ADVANCER ASSY OFF THE END OF THE CAM SHAFT,, SOMETIMES THE ADVANCER CAM LOBE WILL POP RIGHT OFF BEFORE YOU GET THE ADVANCER OFF,, (IF_IT_DOES_YOU_CAN_SKIP_THE_NEXT_STEPS) IF NOT ONCE YOU HAVE THE ADVANCER IN YOUR HAND GENTLY PULL UP AND TWIST COUNTER CLOCKWISE AND THE POINTS CAM WILL / SHOULD POP RIGHT OFF,, NEXT STEP IS TO INSTALL THE NEW GOLD PICKUP LOBE BACK ON IN THE REVERSE ORDER|
|2. HERE IS THE POINTS CAM LOBE OFF THE ADVANCER FYI,, THE NEW GOLD ONE CAN GO ON IN 2 DIFFERENT POSITIONS 180 DEGREES FROM EACH OTHER BOTH WILL WORK,, BUT I LIKE IT THAT THE ONE WAY THE PICKUP UNIT IS LOCATED ON TOP THE CAM AFTER THE TIMING IS SET,, IF YOURS IS AT THE BOTTOM AFTER THE TIMING IS SET YOU CAN REMOVER THE LOBE AND TURN IT THE 180 DEGREES AND BINGO ON TOP|
|3. IF YOU TAKE THE ADVANCER OFF THE CAM OR IF IT SLIDES OUT A LITTLE BIT YOU MUST MAKE SURE THE NOTCH ON THE BACK SIDE OF THE ADVANCER ASSY IS OVER THE #14 PIN IN THE PICTURE HERE ,, THIS WAY THE ADVANCER WILL STAY IN TIME WITH THE CAM AND CRANK|
|4. NOW THAT THE ADVANCER IS BACK ON PUT THE BOLT ON AND TIGHTEN IT UP,, THEN PUT THE NEW PICKUP PLATE ON LIKE THIS PICTURE SHOWS,, JUST BARELY SNUG UP THE TWO SCREWS/WASHERS THAT HOLD THE PLATE,, NOW YOUR READY TO SET THE TIMING|
|5. OK LETS RUN THE WIRES WHERE THEY NEED TO GO,, REMOVE BATTERY COVER, BATTERY, BATTERY HOLDER, BOLTS THAT HOLD COIL, SWING COIL OUT AND EXPOSE WIRES|
|6. UNPLUG BOTH WIRES COMING FROM THE COIL,, THEN PLUG ONE OF THE BLACK JUMPER WIRES INTO THE FEMALE CONNECTOR WHERE THE BLACK COIL "HOT" WIRE WAS,, THEN THE OTHER BLACK JUMPER WIRE INTO THE BLACK/W OR HOT GOING TO THE COIL,, THEN THE YELLOW JUMPER GOES INTO THE GREEN WIRE COMING FROM THE COIL|
|THIS PICTURE SHOWS WHERE WE LACED THE LEADS INTO THE FRAME BY THE GAS LINES|
|THIS IS ANOTHER SHOT OF THE WIRES AFTER WE PUT THE JUMPERS INSIDE THE FRAME GOING IN ALONG THE SIDE THE GAS LINES,, NOW PUT EVERYTHING BACK IN,, BE CAREFUL NOT TO HAVE ONE THE JUMPER WIRES COME UNPLUGGED WHEN REINSTALLING THE COIL (WE_FOUND_THAT_OUT_THE_HARD_WAY)|
|SETTING THE TIMING,, I AM SURE THERE ARE 3 OR 4 DIFFERENT WAYS IT CAN BE DONE WITH THIS SETUP,, BUT THIS WORKED JUST FINE,, TEST LIGHT PROBE POINT IN THE PLUG CAP/SOCKET AND THE OTHER ON PLUG END OR GROUND ,, NOW, WITH THE KEY AND KILL SWITCH IN THE RUN POSITION TURN THE FLYWHEEL BOLT COUNTER CLOCKWISE AND YOU WILL SEE THE TESTER FLICKER WHEN THE SPARK OCCURS, NEXT TURN THE IGNITION'S PLATE UNTILL THE FLICKER HAPPENS RIGHT WHEN THE "F" MARK ON THE FLYWHEEL IS ALIGNED UP WITH THE INDEX MARK,, THGHTEN THE PLATE SCREWS UP AND RECHECK|
|THIS PICTURE IS AFTER WE TIMED AND HAD IT RUNNING (NOTE THE PICKUP IS ABOVE THE CAM) ,, SHOWN WITH OUR OPTIONAL CORD/HARNESS GROMMET AND CLAMP ADDED ,, THIS IS ON OUR 1979 CT90 ALL THE OTHER MODELS SHOULD BE THE SAME|
|THIS IS A PICTURE WITH OUR OPTIONAL RUBBER GROMMET AND WIRE CLAMP/HOLDER|
|ALL BUTTONED BACK UP ,, STARTS SO EASY NOW -- WOW|
|OPTIONAL 8" SUB WIRE SET FOR EXTENDING ELECTRONIC IGNITION KIT FOR CT90 AND OTHERS (326H/EXT/KIT)|
|*OVERFLOW HOSE CLAMP Z50A'S CT70'S CT ATC 90/110 1/19M (49J)HOLDS THE CARB DRAIN/VENT HOSE IN PLACE|
|6MM X 10MM PAN HEAD SCREW (SOLD_EACH) (CT70K0/HK0_CHAIN_GUARD)|
|**IGNITION_COIL CT90K0_THRU_1979 (ALL_CM91'S) (CL90's) (S90_ST90's_READ)|
(C70M) (CL70's_READ) 30400-046-156 30530-102-780 1/20A (38A) temp out of stockTHIS IS THE IGN COIL ON ALL CT90'S K0 THRU 1979. MAKE SURE YOU NEED THIS BEFORE YOU ORDER IT BECAUSE THERE ARE NO RETURNS ON ELECTRICAL PARTS. IT COMES WITH A NEW CONDENSOR.
"IF YOU HAVE A CL90 OR CL70 THIS WILL WORK, IT IS JUST THAT THE BOLT PATTERN MAY BE OFF"
here is the scoop on the st90's fitment (thanks!! Dean)
This coil is a fit on the ST90! Bolt holes match and the TEC# is the same as
the original. The one difference is the leads. On my old one the green has a
female connecter and the new one has a male> Not a big deal!
S90 OWNERS, THIS WILL WORK ON THE S90, NOT SURE ON THE PRIMARY WIRE TERMINALS , LOOK AT WHAT YOU HAVE NOW AND BE PREPARED