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CT90 ST90 OWNERS !! HAVE A BROKEN KILL SWITCH ?? CLICK AND READ<p>(START / LIGHT OFF ON / KILL) SWITCH REPLACES OEM NUMBER 35300-341-671 (329F) temp out of stock

THIS SWITCH IS FOR/FROM A BIG HONDA BIKE 1973 TO 1977 (550/750)

BUT I GOT THEM FOR THE FOLKS WANTING TO FIX THERE STOCK KILL SWITCHES ON THE CT90'S AND ST90'S

AS THERE IS NOT A COMPLETE REPLACEMENT HANDLEBAR SWITCH FOR THE CT90 OR ST90 ON THIS PLANET THAT I CAN FIND OR I WOULD BE SELLING THEM (:

THE KILL SWITCH PART ON THIS SWITCH HAS THE CORRECT FLOW FOR THE CT90'S AND ST90'S AND SHOULD REPLACE THE STOCK RED KILL SWITCH. I EVEN THINK THE PIGTAIL/CIRCUIT BOARD WOULD WORK IF YOU NEED THAT TOO, SEE THE PICTURES BELOW ,, FEEL FREE TO CORRECT ME WHEN YOU TRY THIS ON YOUR STOCK SWITCH...

JUICE FLOWS THROUGH THE SWITCH WHEN IN THE CENTER POSITION AND JUST DON'T FLOW ON THE OTHER TWO

THIS WAS HOW THE BATTERY IGNITION SYSTEMS WORKED, POWER WENT FROM THE BATTERY TO THE KEY SWITCH, THEN TO THE KILL SWITCH THEN TO THE COIL. SO THE KILL SWITCH JUST ALLOWED THE CIRCUIT TO BE COMPLETE (OR_NOT).

ON THE CT70 AND CT110 WHICH WERE AC/ALTERNATOR IGNITION SYSTEMS THE KILL SWITCH WAS OPEN/NOT FLOWING IN THE MIDDLE POSITION AND GROUNDING THE AC WIRE GOING TO THE COIL IN THE OTHER 2 POSITIONS

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BELOW IS OUR FIRST FEEDBACK ON THIS PRODUCT (:

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Hello from Winnipeg Manitoba Canada,

you wanted to know about the substitute switch which I just purchased from you, well it fits perfectly onto the old switch. The wiring is simple keep the 3 black wires and the 1 brown, plug the brown wire into the black wire with the female bullet connector, the 2 remaining black wires plug into the harness from which the original was removed its that simple.

Thank You

Lawrence S D.


329F$39.99

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Lawrence S D. easy swap - top half


(NO PEG) (EXTERNAL WIRES) (7/8'')


HERE IS THE UNTOUCHED INSIDES


FIRST CLAMP TAKEN OFF


2ND CLAMP TAKEN OFF


LIGHT OFF ON LEVER REMOVED AND TERMINAL SLIDE (BE CAREFUL LOOSE BALL AND SPRING)


PUSH IN/DOWN ON THE RED KILL BUTTON SO IT IS EASY TO REMOVE THE E CLIP.. REMOVE THE KILL SWITCH KEEPING IT POINTED DOWN SO THE BALL, TERMINAL AND SPRINGS DON'T GO FLYING


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KEEP THE BALL ON THE SPRING AND THE BRASS TERMINAL WITH SPRING UNDER IT UP SIDE DOWN


PIGTAIL REMOVED FORM CASTING


STARTER BUTTON IS ALSO REMOVEABLE


HERE IT IS ALL STRIPPED DOWN,, I TOOK THIS SWITCH THIS FAR APART AND THEN REASSEMBLED IT WITH JUST BASIC TOOLS (AND_IT_WORKED_AGAIN)


I THINK YOU CAN USE THE KILL TERMINAL BOARD AND PIGTAIL IF YOU WANT OR NEED TO ?


I FOUND A MAGNETT VERY USEFUL WHEN GOING BACK TOGETHER


REINSTALLING THE E CLIP 2ND HARDEST PART OF GOING BACK TOGETHER ,, YOU MUST HOLD THE KILL SWITCH WITH BALL/TERMINAL AND SPRINGS IN POSITION WHILE TRYING TO GET THE CLIP INTO PLACE


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JUST A LOOK


THE ONLY WAY I FOUND TO GET THE LIGHT SWITCH SLIDE TERMINAL BACK IN WAS TO START SLIDING THE MOTHER BOARD INTO THE SLOT THEN WEDGE THE BALL INTO THE SPRING AND PUSH ALL INTO PLACE


GOT IT IN, NOW BE CAREFUL AND INSTALL THE LEVER, DON'T PULL TO HARD ON THE PIGTAIL


LEVER IN ,, REINSTALL BOTH CLAMPS,,, TAKE A BREATH AND PAT YOURSELF ON THE BACK,, HARD PART IS OVER


NOW JUST KEEP THE STARTER BUTTON POINTING DOWN AND SLIP THE TERMINAL BOARD BACK IN,, HELP THE SPRING SO IT DON'T GET BENT